tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3642531610615272282024-02-14T15:55:02.679-05:00The So-So SewerWhere does the thread go again?Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.comBlogger54125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-45444727889211764722016-03-27T21:33:00.000-04:002016-03-27T21:33:45.033-04:00Fun with knits and knittingHi there! I made a few things.<br />
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This is another Colette Moneta, with a whole story to go with it. I bought a very nice heavyweight mustard ponte at Fabricland, tried on my previous Moneta to make sure it still fit properly, cut fabric, and sewed up the top. And it was way too small! And too small everywhere - I almost couldn't get my arms in the sleeves. Turns out this fabric had almost no stretch, and apparently that matters. :) So, re-bought the fabric, re-cut the next size up, and sewed the whole thing up. And then it was far too big. Because the fabric I'd bought the second time around wasn't exactly the same as the first fabric and had far more stretch. </div>
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So I unpicked the skirt and took in the side seams. It's a little misfitted, but it's just fine. Nice to wear, too. (My camera is slowly dying, and won't show the screen with the timer anymore, so it's mirror photos for me. I'll never be a real blogger.)</div>
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I finished my cardigan, too.</div>
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It was really fun to knit. I think I enjoy the knitting more when it's something more than just the same stitch all the way through. I taught myself all sorts of things too - seaming, cables, creating a button band. I also learned that sizing is just as important with knitting as it is with sewing, alas.</div>
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I picked the size based on my bust measurement, but it's too big in the shoulders, so I need to pick my upper bust size and learn to do the knitting equivalent of a FBA. It's also a little long, as I should have anticipated. But I'm pretty pleased.</div>
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I also knit a scarf and a hat as gifts, but forgot to take photos. Of course.</div>
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Bonus photo: the dress I'm wearing in the photos above (not made by me!)</div>
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Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-17915273250157258362015-09-29T19:24:00.002-04:002015-09-29T19:27:05.037-04:00September sewingWhy hello there! Yes, I am still sewing, and no, you haven't missed a post. Since January, I have:<br />
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1) Sewed a shirt for my dad, which I forgot to take pictures of. The same Hawaiian-style shirt, in a nice olive green striped fabric he picked out. My first time sewing with stripes! I forgot to pay attention to the stripes for the most part, but I did perfectly match the pocket.<br />
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2) Tried once again to fit the dress that I've being trying to fit for a couple of years now. That's what took up most of the year (that, and abandoning sewing for a bit after that). I have finally given up. I'm not going to try again. I'm not even convinced the dress would have looked any good on me, I just wanted to sew everything in the Colette Sewing Handbook. But not that, apparently.<br />
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3) Sewed seasonally-inappropriate flannel pjs for my friend K.<br />
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She didn't say they were terrible, so I'm going to assume they fit. I have a sneaking suspicion they might be too short, but that's what fuzzy socks are for, right?</div>
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Elephants!</div>
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This is the Sewaholic Tofino pattern. I used flat piping, because I couldn't really find nice piping anywhere. Maybe I didn't know where to look. I think my pattern tracing is really going to pay off here, because I can re-use this pattern for myself or others, since I didn't cut the pattern at all.</div>
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4) Made my first repeat (for myself)!<br />
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This is another Colette Sorbetto, the freebie pattern on their website. Based on the last time I made it, I lowered the dart 1" and did a sway back adjustment that didn't seem to make a difference. But the dart placement is so much better.</div>
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The fabric has cat faces on it. Adorable, right? It's an oddly shaped remnant I bought in London. I took the decorative pleat out of the front, because I didn't think the fabric would hold that shape, and then had to add a seam in the back in order to fit the pattern on the fabric I had. I used pre-made bias tape at the neckline and armholes.</div>
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I love the shirt, and it's filling a navy-shaped hole I didn't realize I had.</div>
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5) Made another a-line cotton twill skirt. I now understand the allure of the tried-and-true pattern. </div>
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Although I did have to make some edits - this was one of the first patterns I used, and I'd cut the tissue along with the pattern. Sadly, I have gained some weight since then (very few of my me-made clothes fit right now, which is devastating) and need the next size up, which...wasn't there. So I had to add some on to all the seams. It worked just fine, except with the waistband, where I messed up somehow. There's a little fudging. If you look at the right side, I ran out of fabric for the seam allowance so I had to just finish it with an overcast stitch. Luckily I don't really ever tuck shirts in, so no-one will see it.</div>
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Funny story: I had been planning on making another Sewaholic Cambie (and I still will! I have ridiculous fabric that is calling out to be used), but I would have had to re-fit it, and I thought by the time I finished it, it would be winter. So instead I started this fairly heavy-weight skirt...and finished it while it's still summer temperatures out there. I haven't worn it yet, but I'm sure I'll wear it as much as the previous version.</div>
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Pretty topstitching.<br />
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Next on deck: another Colette Moneta in a heavy mustard yellow. Except today I felt the urge to make a shirt, so I started making the required edits to the Sewaholic Alma (FBA and swayback, for sure, and possibly a narrow shoulder? Sloped shoulder? If I can get the bust right, I'll look at the rest.) I haven't decided what fabric, but I'm going to pull something out of the stash.Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-14952260396801713932015-01-04T16:59:00.002-05:002015-01-05T16:42:59.414-05:00Stretching myselfHello! I'm back, to finally post about the dress I finished just before Christmas. Fair warning, the photos in this post are terrrrrible. Sorry.<br />
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Here it is - my first attempt at sewing with knit fabrics. Short story: I like the result, but the process was annoying. Long story, well, that's the post.<br />
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This is some of the fabric I bought in London, on Goldhawk Road. It's great, but I suspect possibly not the highest quality, because I think it's already starting to stretch. I found cutting it out to me a massive pain - it kept shifting and stretching, and it was hard to feel like I was really getting the actual lines of the pattern. I'm sure it would be easier with a rotary cutter and mat, but that's just more things to find somewhere to put.<br />
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The sewing part was okay - there's a stretch zig-zag stitch on my machine which I used (and a few other stretch stitches, so I'll have to experiment). I even figured out how to set up and thread a twin needle, which wasn't expressly in my machine's manual - I used that to hem the neckline and arms and hem. The actual stitching felt weirdly slow, until I realized that's because it was - the stretch stitch just takes longer to stitch the same length than a regular stitch.<br />
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[ETA: the pattern is Colette Moneta. Forgot to mention that!] I didn't bother doing an FBA (the blessing of stretchy fabrics and a pattern that's drafted for a C cup instead of the normal B), but I did add a little length to the front bodice, and did my regular sway back adjustment on the back. It's still a little low in the back waist, so I took another 1/2 " off the pattern for next time. (Looking at the side photo, I might want to add that 1/2" back on to the skirt at the back, hmm.) And there probably will be a next time - despite not loving sewing with stretch fabric, I did like the end result (dresses with sleeves and pockets, hooray!), and I'm sure I'll make it again. And once I figure out the world of knit fabrics, I have a few other patterns lying around to try.<br />
<br />Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-76293785061747427382014-09-05T19:51:00.000-04:002015-01-04T17:00:41.138-05:00Summer shirt, owl skirt, and a seasonally inappropriate cowl<br />
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I made 3 things! And they go hideously together, heh.</div>
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After my fitting issues with the dress I was trying to make, I wanted to do something that didn't require adjustment. The first thing that came to mind, of course, was a skirt, and I had this Sewaholic Hollyburn pattern hanging around, just waiting to be used with this fabulous fabric.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Owls! In orange and lime green!</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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I had to cut the fabric in a single layer in order to have all the owls upright, so cutting took a long time, but it's a quick make otherwise. And a great skirt in a style I really like currently.</div>
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(It's not as long as it looks there - it's really right below the knee. I actually took a bunch of photos before hemming it with the intention of getting opinions on length, but when I looked at them, this length was the clear winner.)<br />
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I'm definitely looking forward to wearing this, and I'm sure I'll make more.<br />
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I also made a Colette Sorbetto, a free PDF pattern they offer on their website.<br />
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I didn't bother fitting this at all, just cut my bust size. Due to Colette patterns being cut for a larger bust, it worked - not perfect, but okay. The biggest issue was with my sway back, but all RTW clothing has that too, so I'm used to it.<br />
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I got to do two new things with this pattern - work from a PDF pattern (okay, but annoying to paste all the pieces together) and make my own bias tape (time consuming, but looks really good to use the same fabric). I would definitely make this again! And maybe try fitting it better? This is almost like a wearable muslin, given that the random mint green paisley from a yard sale goes with nothing in my wardrobe, so probably won't get worn much.<br />
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Finally, I knit a cowl. Yes, even though it's summer. In my defense, it was winter when I started - I just put it aside for a few other things.<br />
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Stephen West Purl Ridge. It's a little more teal than it looks there. I need to learn to do a looser bind off. But I'm pretty happy with it.<br />
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Now what? Maybe I'll tackle the dress with all the fitting problems again.<br />
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Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-34164625353982257422014-07-09T21:04:00.001-04:002014-07-09T21:04:57.944-04:00And the stash grows...I recently had a chance to go fabric shopping in London (England). I know, right? I went over to visit a good friend, and had only three plans for my vacation: see friends, eat amazing vegetarian food, and buy fabric. It was a good vacation!<br />
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Top left: A funky chartreuse paisley soft cotton from one of the great cramped shops on Goldhawk Road. I can't totally remember, but I think I bought enough for a dress.<br />
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Top middle: Michael Miller from a cute quilting shop in Bury St. Edmunds. I'm thinking a-line skirt.<br />
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Top right: Yes, that's right, I splurged on some Liberty Tana Lawn. It was NOT CHEAP. But I'd budgeted for it. I'm thinking a blouse of some sort, maybe with something contrasting as trim.<br />
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Bottom right: A fairly heavyweight jersey that will be a dress, and my first attempt at sewing stretch fabrics. Like I promised I would do this year!<br />
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Bottom middle: Also bought at Liberty, but I believe it's another designer. I'm in love with this. I've really started falling for navy recently, especially with orange.<br />
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Bottom left: This is a 1.5 metre remnant from a great store on Berwick St. in London - mostly too pricey, but they have a wonderful sale basement. Kitty cats! And wonderfully drapey. I should be able to get a basic top out of this.<br />
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I can't wait! I've been fondling these for days.<br />
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In less exciting news, I think I'm going to abandon the dress I was fitting. I'm still not thrilled with the fit, plus now, after packing things up for the housesitter, I'm not sure which altered tissue was the last one. Argh. So I'm going to put it aside, and then start again in a bit. For now, I'm thinking skirt. I need something that doesn't require an FBA!<br />
Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-16781241632297504012014-04-27T19:57:00.000-04:002014-04-27T20:01:09.760-04:00Pants in the wildI finished my pants! And I wore them to work, and they (mostly) held up.<br />
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It's surprisingly hard to hem pants on yourself - skirts are somehow easier. But pants, pants have two legs that both have to be the same length. Not to mention that I had to decide what length to make them in the first place. But it's done, and I'm quite pleased with myself.<br />
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The one small problem is with the zipper - I had to shorten it, since I shortened the crotch length. But I think that stitching came out. It still works, it just comes completely apart if I zip it fully open. I'm pretty sure I can fix that without having to take anything apart.<br />
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Yes, I will probably make these again. I really do need more trousers. Sadly, although I made all the adjustments to the leg pieces, I forgot to adjust any of the other pattern pieces (fly, pocket, waistband) so I made all those adjustments as I was going. So they won't be quite as quick as I would have hoped a second time.<br />
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In the mean time, as I was procrastinating hand hemming the legs, I started fitting another pattern - the next thing in the Colette Sewing Handbook, a shift dress of sorts. I'm having a very hard time with this one! I did the same adjustments I did for the Cambie dress (shortened the bodice, swayback, FBA). Colette patterns are built for a C cup instead of the standard B, so I did a smaller FBA. But wow, the muslin did not fit.<br />
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I think it's just too big in the bust. I cut a 12 top to a 16 at the waist, and all that seemed okay, but perhaps I overdid the FBA. Just a touch. :) It's also too short in the middle. And I couldn't get a good picture of the back, but it was TERRIBLE - still too long, I think, and weirdly blousy.<br />
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Looking at the back pieces again, I think the problem is that the darts were shortened when I shortened the pattern, and I should have redrawn then back to the original length. And for the front, I've gone down to a 1 1/2" FBA. Once I can get the bodice part fitted properly, I can look at the length again. And this time I'm going to remember to make adjustments to the facing pattern pieces as well.<br />
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<br />Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-88667625603494855562014-03-06T22:08:00.000-05:002014-03-06T22:08:33.550-05:00A Long Day's Journey into PantsRemember me?<br />
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You'd think that a long (very long), cold (very cold) winter would be perfect for lots of sewing. But sewing requires taking your hands out from under the blankets. So, you know. But I finally struggled out from under the cats and pulled out the trousers.<br />
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Look, they actually look like pants! I had a moment of panic when I put them on and they felt tight (you can actually see it in the photo. You can also see that my fly is kind of janky, but it does what it needs to do). I muslined these! They should be perfect! And then I realized that I'd sewn the outside seams of the muslin at 5/8", but the real pants at 1" (what the pattern actually called for). So I re-basted the top part at 5/8" and they're pretty good now. I just need to pull the waistband in at the top of the sides a bit so the front doesn't stick out so much.<br />
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So there you have it. I have to properly sew the seams, finish the waistband, and hem them. See you soon with real live PANTS.<br />
<br />Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-38569519856667948942014-01-05T15:49:00.000-05:002014-01-05T15:49:20.407-05:00...and so it goes: 2014Look, it's 2014! ALREADY. And it's a good thing I don't pretend to be a real blogger, because I've totally failed on that point. Of course, it's hard to write about sewing when I'm not doing any! But the holiday season is over and I'm determined to finally finish those pants. Then move on to more!<br />
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So. My objective for 2013 was to become a faster sewer. Did this happen? Sort of, I guess. I think my actual sewing has gotten faster - I'm faster at reading patterns and doing the stitching. But the process has gotten slower, since I started tracing my patterns and working with muslins. Is this a bad thing? No. I'd like to speed up the whole process, but I think everything I'm doing is only going to mean better clothes in the end.<br />
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I didn't, sadly, complete my goal of one outfit each month. I was doing so well right up to May! And then it slowed down and slowed down, and stopped entirely. Part of that is that I hate cutting out fabric (it's so uncomfortable to do on the floor), so I put off starting new projects. Oh well!<br />
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For 2014, my objective is to <b>broaden my horizons</b> - specifically, try things I haven't done before. Use the Craftsy classes I've bought. Learn how to sew with knits! Try sewing with different materials. But mostly, just keep sewing. Happy 2014, everyone!Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-48737649600405236572013-11-10T21:13:00.002-05:002013-11-10T21:18:53.905-05:00Muslin take 2I have a new sewing machine! After many struggles attempting to sew anything more than a couple of layers of fabric, I realized that I needed something better if I were to improve.<br />
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It's nothing super fancy, just better. So much smoother! The fabric doesn't bunch up when I cross a seam, which was a continual problem before.<br />
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I tested it out on a second muslin of my pants. I forgot to take any photos, sorry! But I think I worked out most of the problems. The only thing is that I'm not convinced of the width of the legs. I did narrow them, but I might narrow them more. These are meant to be wide legged pants, but they are dramatically wider than the pattern pictures.<br />
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In other news, a sewing school is opening at the end of my block. I'm hoping they'll offer some advanced classes so I can take one and then have access to studio time with giant tables for cutting patterns. I'm so tired of cutting on the floor.Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-16741844786962411042013-11-02T20:43:00.000-04:002013-11-10T21:18:53.903-05:00Pants, round 1Oh poor blog, how I've neglected you. Don't worry, it's not you, it's me. Let's catch up.<br />
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I started a pair of pants! And then I promptly ignored them for ages, because I was scared of them. Hence the silence. However, I finally worked through the pattern and made a muslin.<br />
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First problem: I totally cut the wrong size. I was between sizes and cut the larger one. Should have listened to the books that say cut the smaller size when you're in between. These photos are after I took in an inch on each outer seam, hence the giant seam allowance.<br />
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After that I was kind of stumped. I could see they didn't fit properly, but I had a hard time telling where the problem was. In the end I shortened the crotch length (so they weren't so saggy in the crotch, and the waist wasn't so high), increased the crotch depth (to accommodate the derriere - this should hopefully also make the side seam straight), took a little off the centre back height (for my sway back) and added a tiny bit to the centre front height (for better stomach coverage). I'm not convinced about the width either - I was looking for something wide-leg dress trouser-like, but these might be too wide for me. I'll play with that in the real fabric, though.<br />
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I've cut a second muslin (or really just re-cut the original muslin pieces) since I'm cutting a new size. Hopefully it'll feel better!<br />
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In other news, I've bought a new sewing machine! I'm very excited. When I actually have it in hand (it was on sale and they ran out of stock, but I got the sale price) I'll share all the details. Sadly, I thought I was going to get to pick it up on Wednesday, so I sold my old machine, and now I have no machine at all. Boo.<br />
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Oh, and in other other news, I knit a scarf.<br />
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Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-30783564000151584742013-09-21T19:25:00.000-04:002013-09-21T19:45:18.304-04:00Hmmm<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I'm not convinced by this one. The fact that I finished it a week ago and haven't worn it yet says a lot to me. It just doesn't fit right. I did do a muslin, but I was focused entirely on the bust (which worked out quite well, thanks to this tutorial: <a href="http://lazystitching.wordpress.com/2010/11/22/full-bust-adjustment-gathered-bodice/" target="_blank">Gathered bodice full bust adjustment</a>). Here's a little secret. I'm a lazy musliner. I do the basics, but I don't go as far as zippers and buttons. I did get as far as putting on one sleeve - a giant puffed sleeve which I promptly rejected in favour of these slightly fluttery ones. But because I didn't properly fit the closure, I didn't notice that it didn't totally fit around the hips, or in the shoulders.<br />
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I don't know why I didn't think to make the two adjustments I made so successfully with the Cambie (swayback adjustment, and an inch off the bodice length). It's too bad, because those are exactly the problems. Note to self: FBA, swayback, and bodice length! Every time. Maybe one day I'll figure out how to do that before the muslin, even.<br />
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The thing is, I'm not sure it's a great style for me anyway, at least not around the neckline. Doesn't it look better without the collar? (And it would look even better without the sunburn.)<br />
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So, all in all, unconvinced. I'm going to make myself wear it next week and see how it is in real life - with that skirt, I think; it perfectly matches some of the flowers in the pretty yellow fabric. </div>
<br />Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-54538164534290976392013-07-29T21:43:00.001-04:002013-07-29T21:43:27.121-04:00UpcomingI've traced my next pattern, but my scissors are off being sharpened, so I can't get started. Instead, I poked through my pattern and fabric stashes to see what's next. What's actually next is TROUSERS - I figure if I start them after this shirt I might finish them at some point in the winter. If I'm lucky. But after that! So here are a few options.<br />
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I bought this silk blend in New York at one of the few fabric stores that was open on Memorial Day. There are 2 other projects in the book before this shirt, though, so it'll have to wait. <br />
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I bought this random piece of overdyed paisley at a garage sale. I have visions of making a summery top with wide ribbon straps. That's right, I'm going to attempt making my own pattern ("pattern"). I suppose I should do that before summer is over.<br />
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Owls! I haven't looked closely enough at the pattern to see if the owls would be right side up. And I don't have quite enough fabric for the length I want. But I'm going to see if it works.<br />
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I want to try another Sencha.<br />
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I'm not convinced this random soft material will work for this shirt. Maybe the top view? </div>
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I also have a few other pieces of patterned material. Most of the rest of of my patterns are for dresses, though, and none of the fabric has enough yardage. I guess I need to go shopping!</div>
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Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-14565094660546051402013-07-24T21:55:00.000-04:002013-07-24T21:56:14.586-04:00Break's overWell, that was an unplanned sewing break. I blame summer - even with air conditioning, I find it hard to have enthusiasm for anything in the summer. Even reading! But we're having a few cooler days (bliss), and suddenly things seem interesting again.<br />
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Which means I finally managed to finish my skirt. HOORAY.<br />
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I blend into my living room. I'll have to remember this outfit if I ever need to hide in plain sight.<br />
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The skirt didn't turn out quite like I expected - based on pattern art I thought it was going to sit at the waist, but it sits quite a bit lower. The yoke is kind of oddly curved, too, and I'm pretty sure that's the pattern, not me (see how it comes up again at the side seam?).<br />
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I do like how swishy it is, though. The cotton voile I used for the lining is very soft, so it's quite comfortable to wear. I think the white kind of wiped out the funkiness of the pattern in the fabric, sadly - you can kind of see it in the picture below, but mostly it just looks lime green. And it's longer than I had planned, so I might re-hem it. Maybe. If I ever get the energy.<br />
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So, what did I learn? I figured out how to add a lining when there isn't one in the pattern - very useful! I also learned not to sew the lining too far into the zipper tape, or else the zipper will be hard to close. Oops.<br />
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All in all, a very useful summer skirt, even it's not exactly what I thought I was making. And it perfectly matches the awesome Miz Mooz shoes I just bought (which many people pointed out today, hee).<br />
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<br />Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-63795395013085714422013-07-08T19:47:00.003-04:002013-07-08T19:48:08.364-04:00Sewing beeeeeeeeesHave you heard about <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/2013/06/the-super-online-sewing-bee-a-contest-sponsored-by-sew-mama-sew-and-janome/" target="_blank">the Super Online Sewing Bee</a>? I suppose first I should ask if you've heard about the Great British Sewing Bee, aka look! there are people sewing on tv! Best thing I saw all year. And now there's an online version - 10 sewers, 5 challenges, lots of prizes. I can't wait to see it all play out.<br />
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There's also a "play along at home" component. I wonder if I could manage to do any of the challenges? There are prizes involved! And more time than the official competitors get, heh. I'll have to see. The first challenge has been posted, but I STILL haven't finished my supposedly easy skirt. :)Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-89582005362631196832013-06-17T21:19:00.001-04:002013-06-17T21:21:39.986-04:00Summer skirtAfter all the fitting and finishing of May, I wanted to do something simple for Jume. Okay, really I was secretly hoping to do <b>two</b> quick projects in June, since I'm one project behind for the year. In any case, "simple" means a skirt, since I don't have to make a toile or any alterations. Therefore:<br />
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Front, back, waistband, zipper. Done! HAHAHA. First, I realized that the fabric was really light and a little see-through. Whoops. So I decided to add a lining. And then I saw a cute version on Pattern Review and decided to add the pockets. This, as it turns out, was a terrible idea. Not only is the pocket pattern badly made, with markings that don't line up, but they looked horrible once they were on. Like some sort of pocket-y jodphur. </div>
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I'm currently in the middle of picking the pockets off. I think it'll be okay - because the fabric is so thin, it got a couple of small holes just from the stitches, but they're not very visible. And then I think I have to attach the lining - I'm kind of making it up as I go along! Thank pete for the internet.</div>
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Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-68421510377265312632013-05-31T21:28:00.000-04:002013-05-31T21:29:18.419-04:00MMM '13: the final countdownYay, it's the end of May! Here's the last of MMM '13.<br />
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May 23: I think I wore this entire outfit already this month.</div>
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May 29: New dress! I'm so happy I managed to finish something else during May.<br />
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May 30: I really can't wait to wear something else.<br />
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May 31: Last outfit!<br />
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(The missing days were when I was in New York - I didn't include those days in my Me Made May pledge. Although I did wear the new dress one night.)<br />
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PHEW. I did it! It was hard - not the pieces, but repeating them so frequently. I like to spread out wearings a little more. If I do this again I'm going to need more me-made clothes!<br />
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Least worn: the pink and green skirt. I'm passing it on.<br />
Most worn: the blue skirt, surprisingly. Probably because it was so cold at the beginning of May!<br />
Hardest to style: the flowered shirt - I discovered that it doesn't go with any of my more summery clothes. I mostly only managed to wear it on the colder days when I could pair it with pants.Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-61007679451037829282013-05-30T20:41:00.000-04:002013-05-30T21:00:09.909-04:00The Sewaholic Cambie<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This dress! THIS DRESS. I may never make anything again, other than this dress over and over again, I love it that much. I can't wait to try it again with the full skirt (although I'm totally thrilled with how the a-line fits).</div>
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It's the <a href="http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/product/1202-cambie-dress" target="_blank">Cambie dress</a> from Sewaholic. I did have to make a ton of adjustments to the top (full bust adjustment, add side darts, shorten front and back, take a tuck out of the back for my swayback), but I think it's a very well crafted pattern, and the dress itself was very easy to sew (even with a full lining!). <br />
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Of course, by the time I sewed the real thing I'd already made 3 muslins, so that might be why it was so quick...<br />
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The perks of custom fit: I think this is the first dress I've owned since I was 13 where the front waistband didn't end up sitting higher than the back. In fact, it's actually<i> lower</i>, because that's how my natural waistband is due to my terrible posture (aka sway back).<br />
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Also, I'm in love with the fabric.<br />
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So there you have it - it took 2 months, but it was totally worth it. I even got it finished in time to wear in New York for my parents' choir concert. And one day I'm going to have a closet full of Cambies.Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-60017246837363324822013-05-22T21:25:00.000-04:002013-05-22T21:25:20.222-04:00MMM '13 Week 3<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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May 15: Apparently I forgot to turn on the lights!<br />
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May 16: Tired of this skirt. I'm sure I'll get over it once I've had a few weeks away. :)<br />
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May 17: I got a lot of compliments on this outfit - mostly on the pants and shoes combination!<br />
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May 18 (okay, and May 20): New shirt! Just in time. </div>
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May 21: I got the orange shoes back from the repair guy just in time - they go with almost everything I've made. You'll see them again.<br />
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May 22: In reality I wore the little white cardigan with this all day.Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-69947131788891111332013-05-18T19:45:00.000-04:002013-05-18T19:45:58.502-04:00Shirt: complete!Hello! I have, amazingly enough, actually finished the shirt I started back in March. I KNOW.<br />
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(Nice pyjama pants, right?) To catch you up on all the delays, there was the FBA I had to make that was far too roomy in the centre, requiring me to unpick the sash and figure out a workaround. There was the fact that this material is a complete pain to work with - the needle kept getting stuck in the embroidery. And then, right at the end, when I finally figured out how to the binding in the arm and neckhole (terrible instructions), my machine was too wimpy to sew through all the layers. I think it might be time to upgrade my machine.<br />
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I'm very happy with how the shirt turned out, but I'm unconvinced that it's really for me. I think if I'd tried it on in a store I might have put it back. It could use a little more width around the hips. But we'll see! I'm sure I'll wear it a bunch before the end of Me Made May, just so I have another shirt.<br />
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And now, I'm hurrying through my dress, which I desperately want to finish before I head to New York (next Friday). I think it's possible, but there's always the zipper to throw me off. Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-46979259868771838652013-05-14T21:20:00.000-04:002013-05-14T21:20:37.968-04:00MMM '13 Week 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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May 8. Am I standing funny or are my breasts really that lopsided?<br />
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May 9. I really don't mean to cut off my shoes in these photos. They are cute yellow sneakers.<br />
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May 10. It's a good thing it cooled down again, because this shirt only seems to go with my fall and winter clothes.<br />
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May 11. If nothing else, this is forcing me to wear this skirt in ways that don't involve trying to match the orange thread.<br />
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May 12. Yes, it's true, I wore basically the same thing on Saturday and Sunday, with the exception of legwear in honour of the giant HAIL.<br />
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May 13. Monday morning, too tired to stand up. I liked this combo. It's cuter when you can see the shoes.<br />
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May 14. I didn't like the shoes and swapped them for boots. I miss my lost mary janes.Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-75952655354520452452013-05-07T21:42:00.003-04:002013-05-07T21:43:19.122-04:00Me-Made-May Week 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Day 1. As you can see by the backwards writing, I was still attempting the mirror shots. :)<br />
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Day 2. Look, I learned how to use the self-timer!<br />
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Day 3. Forgot my sign - I made the skirt. I took this photo after work, so I'm a little wrinkled.<br />
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Day 4 (weekend). I never wear this skirt. It's pretty obvious why when I look at it - I look twice as short as normal. I might try to shorten it, although frankly I think I might just get rid of it. And the shirt, too, really. Super unattractive all around.<br />
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Day 6.<br />
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Day 7. I said on Twitter that jean skirts make me feel like I'm 12 years old. They're so useful, though.<br />
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I have one more skirt that I haven't worn yet, and then it's back to these! We'll see if I can manage to make them more interesting next time around.<br />
<br />Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-70518773332451358392013-04-27T16:22:00.001-04:002013-04-27T16:22:47.748-04:00Dress updateI'm actually enjoying doing the fitting adjustments on this dress - surprise!<br />
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When we last spoke, I'd made adjustments on the bodice, moved the darts, and had the side seams come out all uneven. So I made a new version of the pattern piece for the front bodice, with my adjusted darts, and evened out the side seam. Then cut out a new muslin of the top.<br />
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Here's where I am now: I had to shorten the shoulders - on the front I took it from the straps, and on the back I shortened the whole thing. Amazingly, this made the side seams the same length as the front (they were longer before). Awesome thing #1: I sewed up the back where the zipper will go, and still managed to squish it on, which helped immensely - I can't really figure out how to adjust the back by myself with my short arms, but at least I can see where the problem is! I do need to do a sway back adjustment, since the back is dipping down below my waist. And my adjustments to make the side seams straight means the bottom of the bodice is now bigger than the waistband, so I need to figure that out. Maybe make the darts from the waist bigger? Or just redraw the seams. Phew!<br />
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It's kind of hard to see with my crap self-portraits, but in the second photo on the right you can see that the back is dipping below my waist, and is also wrinkling around there. You can see the imbalance a bit in the last photo too. Also, please enjoy my pyjama pants.<br />
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Awesome thing #2: the fact that I managed to take a photo of my back in the mirror. SKILLS.<br />
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Update! I made the swayback adjustment, which seems to have worked well.
And the waistband seems to fit to the skirt now, which makes no sense to me, but
okay. Having sewed the waistband on, though, I suspect it's a bit too
short right in the front. And possibly too large around the waist. I may be making yet one more copy of the shirt front pattern pieces. I'll attach the skirt and see how it works first.<br />
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(As for the ongoing shirt, my adjustment worked this time, hooray! And then I futzed with seam finishes for a while. I'm now ignoring it because the next step is to trim the edges with bias tape, which scares me a little.)Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-13441099661512505602013-04-13T21:28:00.000-04:002013-04-27T16:23:21.580-04:00Me-Made May and more fun with muslins<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/me-made-may13-sign-up-here.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="60" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis4DcPEMk0t4ktIxysiyXBgmfcl2DzNqZYxuL17A1seJ1EFFaLJOh-4_UEyyXXWYIw2eWQ1zH0Cx0NRBSC_C_EK-BcNHGjowqVT9xJNizOjPZW-WsxMo1F-JoAHu807N5HKoAvdjxIwtE/s320/mmay13.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Yes, I took the pledge. I'm going to participate in Me-Made May by wearing one thing made by me each day in May (except when I'm in NY). I only have something like 6 things so far, unless I manage to finish either March's failed shirt, or April's dress, so there'll be a lot of repeating clothes. But maybe it'll encourage me to hurry up and make more. :)<br />
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Meanwhile, last night I unpicked the shirt to make one more attempt at a bust adjustment that will actually work. I hope it does - I really like the fabric, despite it being a PAIN to sew. It's got these embroidered flowers that my wussy machine doesn't want to sew over. All will be forgiven if I can make the shirt work, though.<br />
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And I'm working on fitting my dress. I did a full-bust adjustment following the slash-and-spread method from this great book: <a href="http://www.amazon.ca/Fit-Real-People-Clothes-Pattern/dp/0935278656" target="_blank">Fit for Real People</a>.<br />
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I needed to add 3 inches to each slash, which meant I ended up having to add a dart to the side (as well as the one from the waist that was already there). But adding 3 inches at each of those cuts, the new dart, and trying to go from a 12 at the top to a 16 waist, meant that my edges didn't end up straight. I still have some figuring out to do! I had to move the darts at bit, too, although I think I managed to get them ending at the right place so I don't have dart nipples. Anyway, I've had to try for another version of the front bust piece - as soon as I get more practice material, take 2 will be underway.<br />
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And then, after making two things that needed adjustment, I think my next project is going to be a super basic skirt!Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-32823876215770666522013-03-30T21:34:00.001-04:002013-03-30T21:36:01.772-04:00Baby's First WadderFirst, the good: I finished the February skirt! I actually finished about a week ago, so not quite so far into March. :)<br />
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It's okay. It's a very cute pattern - I really like the scallops on the botttom. The darts don't fit entirely, but I'm sure that's easily fixed. I'm just not convinced it's the best style for me and my sizeable waist-hip ratio. I think things with actual waists look better on me. It's funny - this is the kind of thing I always buy: not fitted in the waist, sitting on the hips. Comfortable, but not actually flattering.<br />
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Look at that gap! Since I've started sewing, I'm so much more aware of fit. In fact, I think I'm too aware of fit, to the point where I often can't figure out what proper fit is. I need the pattern designer there with me, to tell me how tight or loose it's supposed to be. I looked at this skirt, and I <i>think</i> it's fitting the way it's intended to fit, but that fit is just not the best style for me. But maybe it just needs to be adjusted? Maybe if I make the waist smaller? There's no actual waistband, though.<br />
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In any case, the skirt is fine, if not awesome. I wore it to work, and with a shirt over instead of tucked in, it's not noticeable, although the waist ends up rolling oddly through the day. Super comfortable, though, since it doesn't come anywhere near my waist. :)<br />
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And now the bad. The March shirt, which was going swimmingly and was totally going to get finished before April (the power of long weekends and the end of the month being on a weekend!), is a wee bit disasterous. I hit a point where it was basically sewn together, so I was able to try it on properly. My bust adjustment worked perfectly to put the band where it's supposed to be - except that it's now giant and gapey in the middle of the bust. I guess this is what 3 extra inches of fabric does! So I'm thinking maybe if I take it back to the original length in the centre, give it more of a W shape. I'm frankly just making things up here. Because otherwise this is a dead shirt, and I'd be sad to lose the fabric.<br />
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In any case, to make that change I have to basically unpick the entire thing. So I think it's going to go onto the back burner for a little while, and I'll unpick it slowly and see what I can do.<br />
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Instead, I'm going to move on, start something new. April's project is calling!<br />
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<br />Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-364253161061527228.post-48764026324923073942013-03-16T20:46:00.003-04:002013-03-16T20:54:58.079-04:00The Power of the ToileHello! I'm still finishing off February's project (just a little more handsewing of the hem to go), but I started working on March's project during all the zipper foot ridiculousness.<br />
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Here's what's happening for March:<br />
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I'm still not certain about how to pick the right size for tops. Straight up bust measurement puts me at an 18<span style="background-color: white;"></span>, but that's an 18 with a B cup, which I'm definitely not. So I need a full bust adjustment (FBA). But! I've read some things that say if you're going to do a FBA, you should start with your upper bust measurement, which puts me at a <span style="background-color: white;">16</span>. Confusing, I tell you. <br />
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The bust part of this is gathered, not fitted, and the bottom is loose, so I thought I might be able to get away with a straight 18 and no FBA . But something like this definitely calls for a to<span id="goog_1667008039"></span><span id="goog_1667008040"></span>ile.<br />
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Look - it's a muslin in actual muslin! Which, by the way, was not as cheap as I would have thought. I think when this runs out I'm going to pick up some secondhand sheets or something.<br />
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Perfect fit, right? Heh.<br />
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Here's what happens when the band is where it's supposed to be.<i> Classy.</i> I always have this problem in RTW clothes in this style - either the underbust seam is in the wrong place, or it's cleavage central. Also, you can't really see it, but the shoulder seam is pulled about 2 inches forward.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixyRKYo-SGMzLTfcZakiWrKoBNbVoUQ5YYwu0SParZMH3mxe9s8t-OXxbfQYVmIZLukEZlOTg71BJWyGvguPW0TUCK3zA5Fm7QmvsPRvJIzb4utGjzkLSZFR-IBYfF2uY4argFiwxx5F8/s1600/IMG_1067.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixyRKYo-SGMzLTfcZakiWrKoBNbVoUQ5YYwu0SParZMH3mxe9s8t-OXxbfQYVmIZLukEZlOTg71BJWyGvguPW0TUCK3zA5Fm7QmvsPRvJIzb4utGjzkLSZFR-IBYfF2uY4argFiwxx5F8/s320/IMG_1067.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
But at least now the hem is even, not raised in the front like it was.<br />
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So, the obvious - not nearly enough room in the bust. Which I knew was going to happen. I'd originally planned to raise the upper bust line by a couple of inches when I cut out the muslin, but I forgot. And it's gaping around the armpit (although there's a bit of a seam allowance which won't be there. and I think I'm planning on doing one of the sleeves). Plus the bottom is too tight, and stops at exactly the widest part of my hips.<br />
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So new plan: cut the top in a 16 (which I think will also take care of how it's pulling so far to the back when I tie it, creating those lines around the waist), grading to a 20 in the bottom. Add 2 1/2" to the bottom of the front piece, curving down from the regular height on the sides (which fits fine - I just need the extra in the front). And cut the longer length; then I can hem it wherever it looks okay. I'm also rethinking the sleeve - I was originally going to do the little puffed sleeves in the main picture, but they'd probably not be super flattering on me. So maybe one of the fluttery sleeves? I'll have to check how much drape my fabric has.<br />
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In any case, all of this means I have to start again - retrace the pattern pieces (but now I've learned the benefit of tracing! If I'd cut the tissue pieces to the 18, I would have had to recreate the size 20 for the bottom this time around), cut them out, cut my fabric, sew it up. But it's all good. If I'd sewn this without a muslin, it would have been a waste of fabric - a complete wadder. And maybe it'll be faster this time around because I've sewn it once?<br />
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I'll be back soon with my completed February project! And probably with a vote - the skirt is super cute, but I can't decide if it's cute on<i> me</i>. STAY TUNED.<br />
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<br />Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07984025469026273694noreply@blogger.com7